Continued from Page 5... The tip and Beyond
These huge beasts lived all around us and the first thing we saw every morning was one of their comical faces looking back at us. They were not phased by our presence at all. We were a little apprehensive at first but we soon realised that they posed no threat to us at all. It was kinda fun having them around. It was our main source of company for a couple of days until we had some neighbours come in next to us. Allan and Donna.. a great fun couple.
We could hear them munching away at the grass outside the camper when we went to bed and again when we woke up in the morning. Along with Brama Cattle comes Brama Cattle sized dung piles. Strangely enough there was no odour and no flies. How can that be??
Leycester is a great camping spot and best of it is FREE!!! There is a swimming hole that can get quite deep in the wet season. While we were there the water was just about knee high. The water trickles along so it is nice to just sit in the shallows and let the water flow over you.
There we are... all on our lonesome apart from the bovine visitors.
Our original plan was to have an over night stop here but we liked the peacefulness so much that we ended up staying a whole week.
But it just got too hot and the lack of shade and lack of breeze all became too much for us city folks.. we were melting so we decided to move on while we were still lucid and leave our bovine friends to it. It's no wonder only the cattle can live here. On the subject of cattle, we had planned to stop at Larawa Cattle Station for a couple of nights on our way to Fitzroy Crossing. Larrawa is a farm stay style bush camp that had been recommended to us by fellow travelers.
27th-29th August Larrawa Station. NSW
As we drove in we found a lovely shady spot on a 2 acre grassy area shared with only 2 other vans. The picture shows us right in middle with the other two setups a good distance away.
Wendy, the station owner, came and greeted us with her dog Sam in tow. Her friendly and welcoming manner was greatly appreciated as she told us of the history of the farm, the 5000 head of cattle they farm,walks and areas we could explore, the other animals here on the station and her family.
After set up we went for a leisurely walk down to Christmas Creek, past the pet camel and donkey, both of which were rescued as babies and have lived together ever since.
When we finally got to the river after going through a few paddocks, and having cattle meander across the path in front of us, we tried to imagine the intensity and expanse of what the river would look like in the wet, but now in the dry there was only the odd small pool left. It was a pity as it was still very hot and a dip would have been nice.
Wendy, the station owner, came and greeted us with her dog Sam in tow. Her friendly and welcoming manner was greatly appreciated as she told us of the history of the farm, the 5000 head of cattle they farm,walks and areas we could explore, the other animals here on the station and her family.
After set up we went for a leisurely walk down to Christmas Creek, past the pet camel and donkey, both of which were rescued as babies and have lived together ever since.
When we finally got to the river after going through a few paddocks, and having cattle meander across the path in front of us, we tried to imagine the intensity and expanse of what the river would look like in the wet, but now in the dry there was only the odd small pool left. It was a pity as it was still very hot and a dip would have been nice.
29th August
We figured that 2 nights at Larrawa was enough. The wind was coming up and we were encountering some problems with gusts of red dust blowing through the mesh screens on the camper. Fitzroy Crossing sounded good and we had stayed there before so we knew the Tourist Park there was good. 29th August was exactly one year to the day that we picked up the camper in Queensland. If only it could talk it could tell lots of stories.
We figured that 2 nights at Larrawa was enough. The wind was coming up and we were encountering some problems with gusts of red dust blowing through the mesh screens on the camper. Fitzroy Crossing sounded good and we had stayed there before so we knew the Tourist Park there was good. 29th August was exactly one year to the day that we picked up the camper in Queensland. If only it could talk it could tell lots of stories.
We checked in at The Fitzroy River Lodge Caravan and Camping Resort.
There was plenty of room available and the sites were good and spacious.
There was plenty of room available and the sites were good and spacious.
One of the first European explorers of the Kimberly area was Alexander Forrest and his party followed the Fitzroy River to its junction with the Margaret River at Geikie George in 1879. The party then travelled east as far as Darwin. After this , around 1882, the first sheep stations were established around the mouth of the Fitzroy.
The area was finally settled in 1886 by Mr McDonald when he set up the Fossil Downs cattle station.He trekked three-years for over, 3,500 miles from Goulburn, New South Wales in order to be able to do this.
Fitzroy Crossing received its first bridge in 1935; which was upgraded structure 1958. into a stronger structure. However even the upgraded version was often closed for months during the wet season so In 1974 a new bridge was built 200 meters south of the crossing which moved the focus of the settlement from its original site.
The area was finally settled in 1886 by Mr McDonald when he set up the Fossil Downs cattle station.He trekked three-years for over, 3,500 miles from Goulburn, New South Wales in order to be able to do this.
Fitzroy Crossing received its first bridge in 1935; which was upgraded structure 1958. into a stronger structure. However even the upgraded version was often closed for months during the wet season so In 1974 a new bridge was built 200 meters south of the crossing which moved the focus of the settlement from its original site.
We did not wander far from the tourist park as we had seen most of the places of interest on our last visit. Instead we spent a few days relaxing around the pool there .
There were quite a lot of birds that visited and we enjoyed watching them fluttering around our water taps trying to find a droplet to quench their thirst
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There is a saying "Simple things please simple minds" The longer we are on this trip the more we come to appreciate the simplest things that the earth has to offer. There is so much beauty out there. You just have to look for it. And we didn't have to look far for these littlle chaps.. they lived little area on site. Flitting around the shrubs and trees all day feeding on the plentiful bugs that inhabited them.
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We were engulfed by the scent from of Frangipani flowers .There were Frangipani trees everywhere It was glorious. Not only were they delightful to look at, but they also had the most magnificent perfume. All the essentila oils and manufactured perfumes in the world cannot match the real thing and believe me when I say, there are times when artificial air fresheners just don't work... especially around our campsite.
We had to make a decision before we left Fitzroy Crossing ... Shall we head to Derby and do the Horizontal Falls trip or shall we head to Broome for a few days and slowly make our way down the coast to Coral Bay starting with Barn Hill. We got to the fork in the road and opted to go straight to Broome. If we did the Horizontal Falls we would do it from Broome.
Broome
We had to make a decision before we left Fitzroy Crossing ... Shall we head to Derby and do the Horizontal Falls trip or shall we head to Broome for a few days and slowly make our way down the coast to Coral Bay starting with Barn Hill. We got to the fork in the road and opted to go straight to Broome. If we did the Horizontal Falls we would do it from Broome so Broome it was. Who would want to go to dirty old Derby when you can go to Sunny Broome.
We parked up on the beach at Broome and had a great day just chatting and relaxing and swimming. The Ocean was very warm..
I know what I would rather play with on the beach
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We checked in at Broome Caravan Park.. A very nice place in fact we are still there and I am almost caught up with my the blog. For a while any way I will be able to talk in the present rather than the past
A couple of stops ago at Leycester we met a couple called Allan and Donna. We also bumped into them at Fitzroy crossing and got on very well with them and who should turn up in Broome but Allan and Donna. They were staying in a different park to us so we made plans to catch up for dinner at their place, then a few nights later dinner at our place We met them on the beach and spent the day in and out of the ocean keeping cool. They are retired farmers from New Zealand but love Australia so much that they have bought a house in Queensland..Lucky Buggers!
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Toby is Allan and Donna's dog. ...He is such a character... We just love him to pieces...
Gantheaume Point Beach at Broome was lovely. We wanted to take the car on the sand and Cable Beach was closed at the time due to overly high tides that had undermined some of the areas and made it unsafe. This was the first of many visits to the beach.
James PricePoint
We took a drive out to
James Price point and Willie Creek.
James Price point is where protesters are camping out and making life as difficult as possible for Woodside to go ahead with any drilling at this beautiful place.
The protesters scaled two Woodside drill rigs at the site of its proposed gas hub at James Price Point .
They have also blocked the roads in and picketed any trucks that are trying to enter the area.
Looks like Woodside has a fight on their hands
FROM THE AUSTRALIAN
Gas giant Woodside silences advice on songlines
WOODSIDE wrote to the West Australian government at least twice last year asking it to withdraw written advice about the possible existence of significant Aboriginal sites in areas disturbed by its proposed $40 billion James Price Point gas hub.
Any damage to the sites integral to an important Aboriginal men's song cycle could leave the resources giant and its directors liable for criminal prosecution under the state's Aboriginal Heritage Act.
A government spokesman confirmed that the Barnett government succumbed to Woodside's wishes and withdrew the letters.
Andrew Chalk, lawyer for indigenous law boss Joseph Roe, who claims cultural responsibility for the area, said Woodside's actions had been "like asking a burglar not to tell a buyer that goods for sale are stolen".
Mr Chalk said letters from Woodside to the state government underscored how the government and the company had run roughshod over heritage concerns at the site near Broome in pursuit of development.
He said that the song cycle had been well documented for more than two decades but many details of it are considered men's business and must remain secret.
The WA Department of Indigenous Affairs wrote to Woodside after evaluating heritage claims following contentious site works in the middle of last year.
James Price point and Willie Creek.
James Price point is where protesters are camping out and making life as difficult as possible for Woodside to go ahead with any drilling at this beautiful place.
The protesters scaled two Woodside drill rigs at the site of its proposed gas hub at James Price Point .
They have also blocked the roads in and picketed any trucks that are trying to enter the area.
Looks like Woodside has a fight on their hands
FROM THE AUSTRALIAN
Gas giant Woodside silences advice on songlines
- by: GRAHAM LLOYD, ENVIRONMENT EDITOR
- From: The Australian
WOODSIDE wrote to the West Australian government at least twice last year asking it to withdraw written advice about the possible existence of significant Aboriginal sites in areas disturbed by its proposed $40 billion James Price Point gas hub.
Any damage to the sites integral to an important Aboriginal men's song cycle could leave the resources giant and its directors liable for criminal prosecution under the state's Aboriginal Heritage Act.
A government spokesman confirmed that the Barnett government succumbed to Woodside's wishes and withdrew the letters.
Andrew Chalk, lawyer for indigenous law boss Joseph Roe, who claims cultural responsibility for the area, said Woodside's actions had been "like asking a burglar not to tell a buyer that goods for sale are stolen".
Mr Chalk said letters from Woodside to the state government underscored how the government and the company had run roughshod over heritage concerns at the site near Broome in pursuit of development.
He said that the song cycle had been well documented for more than two decades but many details of it are considered men's business and must remain secret.
The WA Department of Indigenous Affairs wrote to Woodside after evaluating heritage claims following contentious site works in the middle of last year.
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Before ... After v The traditional custodians have suggested a less culturally sensitive site further to the north that would allow the gas project to go ahead, the $1.3 billion compensation package for local indigenous groups to continue and what is the nation's most defined songline, a path made by Dreamtime ancestors, to remain intact
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Lawyers for indigenous law boss Joseph Roe said letters between Woodside
and the state government underscored how the government and the company
had run roughshod over heritage concerns at the site,
To understand the Aboriginal heritage concerns of Kimberley it is necessary to appreciate the cultural meaning of life and death. How ancestral essence flows below the surface of the ground and the worlds are bridged by songs that contain the codes of behaviour . On a happier note, we enjoyed the day and James Price Point is definitely worth saving. Lets hope there can be some kind of compromise on both sides |
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Before ... After v A company spokesperson said: "Woodside is working closely with senior traditional owners to identify and carefully manage Aboriginal culture and heritage at the site of the proposed Browse LNG Precinct. |
We had some time up our sleeves so we decided to revisit Willie Creek Pearl Farm. We had been there in 2009 and just wanted to see if it had changed at all and have afternoon tea in a very pleasant surrounding.
Absolutely nothing had changed and the view from the cafe was just as stunning as ever. It was a pity that we couldn't swim here though.. Rumour has it that the creek's residents don't like people swimming in their domain and are not very friendly. Sometimes you just have to let sleeping Crocs lie... I don't have a problem with that. Anyway, back at camp we could swim in the magnificent people friendly pool .
The only wild beast in there was this friendly little chap who liked to sun bake around the pool loungers.
This just has to be one of the nicest places that we have stayed at and the weather is perfect . 32-37c every day with a lovely cool breeze just when you need one. Most of our days are spent just soaking it all up.
This just has to be one of the nicest places that we have stayed at and the weather is perfect . 32-37c every day with a lovely cool breeze just when you need one. Most of our days are spent just soaking it all up.
I am at last right up to date with my blog. Today is September 25th 2012 and it all began August 20th 2011.
Where did all that time go? We will stay here in Broome for another week. We are sort of winding down and having a hiatus here before we slowly make our way down to Coral Bay for the last two weeks in October. That will be our last big stop before driving back to Perth.
Today September 25th
Today we booked to go on a day tour of the Horizontal Falls and surrounding places of interest. We could not get seats until next Monday, 1st Oct. They fly you up there by sea plane and transfer you to various boats to cruise the falls and the water ways . We also get to swim with the sharks in a shark cage and generally get waited on hand and foot....This is something we have both always wanted to do and we ummed and arred about the cost of it until our friends Allan and Donna asked us if we were going as they were and we could all go together...Ummm... errrr... umm... errrr... $$$... ????....umm ....$$?? YES!!.. We may never pass this way again and we can't take it with us. I will report back on that, after the happening.Apart from that, it has been a very busy day lazing around the pool with a good book.
Lee's Birthday
Tomorrow (26th September) is my youngest on Lee's Birthday.. It is always difficult when birthdays come around and we are not near them to give them birthday hugs. They are all grown up but as every mother knows.... they are always our babies.
< < < < < < Lee with his much loved 'Teddy'
It is bedtime now and the bats are flying and flapping around camp. Impossible to get a photo. They are the noisiest bats that we have encountered. It will go on all night
But the the feral mouse that sneaks in silently and steals the bait from the traps and sneaks out again with out a sound is the master of stealth. We are determined to catch him before we leave here.... It is time to up the anti with the trapping method and try something new. Maybe a 12 bore shot gun......That would work.....Bedtime!!
< < < < < < Lee with his much loved 'Teddy'
It is bedtime now and the bats are flying and flapping around camp. Impossible to get a photo. They are the noisiest bats that we have encountered. It will go on all night
But the the feral mouse that sneaks in silently and steals the bait from the traps and sneaks out again with out a sound is the master of stealth. We are determined to catch him before we leave here.... It is time to up the anti with the trapping method and try something new. Maybe a 12 bore shot gun......That would work.....Bedtime!!
26th September
Well it is the next day and we started it with a phone call to Lee to wish him a happy Birthday, It was great chatting with him but after the chat it wasn't so great when we discovered that the little devil is still pooing in the pantry...
He likes peanuts.. we discovered that because he left a clue behind by nibbling the corner off a peanut wrapper.. Huh Haa!!.. Down to Woolworths to buy some peanut butter to lay in the traps...and if that fails we have a back up plan and got a sonic mouse repeller to plug in our sleep area.
Greg was determined not to be beaten by something so small.. A no holds barred battle of wits between man and mouse was in the making. Personally I am over it.. it seems each day I have to clean up after the smelly little critters. We were planning on going to the beach this morning but by the time we had finished messing around with cleaning and shopping for baits etc it was lunchtime... by then we were very hot and jumped into the pool to cool off and couldn't be bothered getting organised and going to the beach .. we just stayed at the pool for the rest of the afternoon..and then headed off to see the sunset..
He likes peanuts.. we discovered that because he left a clue behind by nibbling the corner off a peanut wrapper.. Huh Haa!!.. Down to Woolworths to buy some peanut butter to lay in the traps...and if that fails we have a back up plan and got a sonic mouse repeller to plug in our sleep area.
Greg was determined not to be beaten by something so small.. A no holds barred battle of wits between man and mouse was in the making. Personally I am over it.. it seems each day I have to clean up after the smelly little critters. We were planning on going to the beach this morning but by the time we had finished messing around with cleaning and shopping for baits etc it was lunchtime... by then we were very hot and jumped into the pool to cool off and couldn't be bothered getting organised and going to the beach .. we just stayed at the pool for the rest of the afternoon..and then headed off to see the sunset..
After an evening on the beach at Broome watching the sun go down you are guaranteed a peaceful nights sleep... Maybe it is the wine we drank while there but what it was... It works. I have never been to a place that is so relaxing. It makes you feel as if you never want to leave...
28th Sept
Every morning when we get up we are greeted by a baby Magpie who even though he is quite big is still very young and not long weaned by his mother. She stays in he tree next to us keeping guard and checking out his progress.
He is doing very well and in the 2 weeks since we have been here has become less nervous of us and is now happy to take food from us straight from my hand. We don't feed him too much as he has to also learn how to hunt for his own food which we have observed him doing quite well.
I wish I could take him home with me.
He stands by my chair while I have brekky and looks up at me as if to say "Mummmmmmm" I'm hungry.......feed me.. and of course I do.. This morning he had bacon rind,, yesterday he had some grated cheese. Not bad eh?
He is doing very well and in the 2 weeks since we have been here has become less nervous of us and is now happy to take food from us straight from my hand. We don't feed him too much as he has to also learn how to hunt for his own food which we have observed him doing quite well.
I wish I could take him home with me.
He stands by my chair while I have brekky and looks up at me as if to say "Mummmmmmm" I'm hungry.......feed me.. and of course I do.. This morning he had bacon rind,, yesterday he had some grated cheese. Not bad eh?
September 29th
AFL Grand Final Day.. Sydney Swans-V-Hawthorn Hawks Greg went to one of the Campers here on site to watch it n their TV as we don't carry one.. Up until today we really have not wanted one. If he had not been invited he would have one to the pub or maybe just listened on the radio. Our team 'West Coast Eagles' was not in the final so it had sort of lost it's magic somewhat for us. |
It was a hard fought game and in the end Sydney Swans took the Championship.
I am not a footy fan and can't see what all the Hoo Ha is about, although I do enjoy watching The Eagles play
I am not a footy fan and can't see what all the Hoo Ha is about, although I do enjoy watching The Eagles play
This cheeky little Friar Bird would turn up after the baby Magpie and pick up any leftovers that he may have dropped.
The Friar bird is so quick and very skitty.
It was very hard to photograph him actually still.All the birds here definitely have a pecking order
The Friar bird is so quick and very skitty.
It was very hard to photograph him actually still.All the birds here definitely have a pecking order
These two definitely are number one in the pecking order and get to feed first
They are very devoted to each other and spend a lot of time preening each other.
Here they've just taken a bath under the sprinkler and have been lying down together and cleaning each others feathers,
Here they've just taken a bath under the sprinkler and have been lying down together and cleaning each others feathers,
We just love our birds... especially when they are so tame as these little darlings. They have no fear of people.
Gilbert the fisherman
We also like fresh caught fish and we were treated to fresh caught Snapper by our camper neighbour, Gilbert, who went out fishing every day and never failed to come back with something. He made up some Soy sauce and Wasabi dressings and cut the red Tuna meat very thinly and we ate it Japanese style, raw and dipped in sauce. I was very dubious at first as the thought of raw fish does not turn my crank, but I was shamed into trying it, as everyone else was enjoying it. I was pleasantly surprised by the taste and the texture.. It was quite good.
I preferred the Snapper though.. I cooked it in Lemon and Pepper and it was beautiful.... Thankyou Gilbert
I preferred the Snapper though.. I cooked it in Lemon and Pepper and it was beautiful.... Thankyou Gilbert
It's a really tough life but some one has do it.
The Horizontal Falls
Yesterday we took a full day tour out to The Horizontal Falls.
Horizontal Waterfalls (nicknamed the "Horries") is the name given to a natural phenomenon on the coast of the Kimberley.
"The Horries" are a fast-moving tidal flow through two narrow, closely aligned gorges of the Mclarty Range, located in Talbot Bay.
The direction of the flow reverses with each change of tide. As tides here can reach 10 metres, a peak tide creates a huge difference in the sea level on either side of each gorge.
The northern, most seaward gorge is 20 metres wide and the southern, more inland gorge is 12 metres. Above each of the gorges are natural reservoirs between six and eight kilometres long which fill and empty with seawater through the gorge openings. The inner gorge is also partly fed by fresh water from Poulton Creek..
Horizontal Waterfalls (nicknamed the "Horries") is the name given to a natural phenomenon on the coast of the Kimberley.
"The Horries" are a fast-moving tidal flow through two narrow, closely aligned gorges of the Mclarty Range, located in Talbot Bay.
The direction of the flow reverses with each change of tide. As tides here can reach 10 metres, a peak tide creates a huge difference in the sea level on either side of each gorge.
The northern, most seaward gorge is 20 metres wide and the southern, more inland gorge is 12 metres. Above each of the gorges are natural reservoirs between six and eight kilometres long which fill and empty with seawater through the gorge openings. The inner gorge is also partly fed by fresh water from Poulton Creek..
Come on an amazing adventure with me.
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There were just 14 of us on the tour and we were taken up to the falls by sea plane and then flew back to One Arm Point, again by seaplane and then by 4WDBus back to Broome making a few stops along the way. The pictures will tell the story
One minute we were over the ocean the next we were back over land..The aircraft banked and turned and gave us the most fantastic views of the islands and the coastline as well as the very unusual landscape inland until all the way up to the falls.
The Buccaneer Archipelago is a beautiful area consisting of some 800 to 1,000 rocky islands with small embayments and secluded white sandy beaches.
It is part of a drowned coastline with islands of ancient massive sand stones dating back (2,500 - 1,800 million years ago). The islands are rugged with not much vegetation, some with patches of rain forest in moist areas. There are mangroves around the edges where silt has accumulated
We were amused by one of the control switches in the cockpit..
Greg was up front with the pilot and really really wanted to pull
that switch just to see what would happen.
I guess we will never know..
The
tides and whirlpools in these waters caused havoc with the pearling fleets late last
century. Many sailors and divers lost their lives. On numerous islands
there are isolated graves, a testimony to the dangerous conditions.
On a happier note the seaplane was awesome. We were flying quite low and banking from side to side that people on both side of the aircraft could get a good view. Wow!! I have never seen anything like this in my life before. I have heard that the falls are incredible... it will be hard to top this. |
William Dampier sighted the Archipelago on the 15th January 1688. It was named on 20th August 1821 "in commemoration of William Dampier’s visit to this part of the coast in 1688".
Pearling in the 1880s was concentrated in Cygnet Bay, Cascade Bay, Cone Bay and Strickland Bay. There are 15 isolated graves in the Strickland Bay area. Cultured pearl farms are now located in these bays. There is a very diverse flora and fauna population on the islands. On Koolan Island there are 11 species of snake including the most deadly, the taipan. There are several species of gecko, skink, monitor and dragon lizards. 118 species of birds were identified. Mammals include rock rats, quolls and bats. The estuarine crocodile is also common in the waters and mangroves. Sea snakes, sharks, swordfish and a great variety of tropical fish are found in the pristine waters and coral lagoons but as beautiful as it is... I would be too chicken to snorkel in these waters. You never know what might be lurking behind the coral.
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The two most developed islands were Cockatoo and Koolan islands. These were mined for iron ore. Cockatoo contains one of the world’s richest ore bodies. Mining ceased on Cockatoo Island in 1986, but resumed in the late 1990s and ceased on Koolan Island in 1992.
Koolan Island had a peak population of 950 people and was an active community with school, police station, recreation facilities and shops. It included a golf course with the longest hole in the world No. 6 - 867-metre par 7. It doubled as the Island’s air strip. Since 1992 all buildings and exotic vegetation has been removed and extensive rehabilitation with native species has taken place. Aboriginal people have lived in the Archipelago for thousands of years and their rock art can be found on many islands . They used rafts of mangrove logs and canoes to travel between the islands. Aboriginal people today still visit their traditional sites and Communities are established in the area.
Macassar people also visited the area and left evidence in campsites with taco plants and Tamarind trees growing in remote coastal locations. I was looking out for the falls in the distance as we knew we were going to fly over them on our way the gorge where the plane would land on the water |
I can see the falls in the distance
There it was.. OMG!! the view is breathtakingly beautiful and we just couldn't wait to get down there to where it all happens. If it was this good from up here , how good would it be 'In the flesh' as the say. We were going to raft the rapids that churn in the narrow gaps....
Bring it on
We landed on Hurricane Creek at Talbot Bay.
A sea plane landing is so different to a regular plane It was like landing on an air cushion, we just slid along the surface that looked like glass, and we didn't even feel a judder. It was incredible. The movie we took of the landing turned out to be too big to post on here but you can view it on this link. |
Hurricane Creek is stunningly picturesque and oh so calm.
The Sea plane cruised on up along Hurricane Creek maneuvering the narrow twists and turns and then we saw the Houseboat / Pontoon as we rounded the final bend.
What a lovely place... I thought I had died and gone to heaven. These waters are home to turtles, sharks,salt water crocs and may different other kinds of marine life.
What a lovely place... I thought I had died and gone to heaven. These waters are home to turtles, sharks,salt water crocs and may different other kinds of marine life.
It is a mystery to me how they managed to construct something of this magnitude right out here in the middle of nowhere. It was probably .towed in in sections but even so.....with the diversity of. the tides that was still a great feat of engineering.
Just as soon as we transferred from the plane to the pontoon , we had some coffee and then we were ushered onto a 500HP inflatable speed boat which just happens to be the fastest boat in the Kimberley for a spin along the waterways before breakfast. It was still only 7.30am and we had been travelling since 6.15am
Donna and I did our presentation pose before we climbed aboard..
Well you never know, JETSTREAM may be looking for a couple of cougars to use in the upcoming Advertising campaign.
Donna and I did our presentation pose before we climbed aboard..
Well you never know, JETSTREAM may be looking for a couple of cougars to use in the upcoming Advertising campaign.
The boat holds 14 people and the seating is the same as sitting astride a horse with a handle to hold on to which we we were going to find very useful on our trip to the falls which was going to be after brekky.
Greg and Allan not wishing to be out done by the cougars
Here we goooooooo!
The stain along the waters edge is evident everywhere and shows the extremities of the tide levels. > > > >
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'Madame' The resident Crocodile was always lurking to check out what was going on. She is used to the boats so our presence doesn't phase her at all
Warming up the boat
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The seismic activity millions of years ago caused the rock to twist and bend and take on a very 'different' rock face.
It was a lovely boat ride and our ' boatman ' tour guide kept us informed about all the geography details etc. Most of that info has escaped me. I tend to be so enthralled with what I am seeing that the finer details disappear into the background.
As we turned to return to the pontoon we saw one of the sea planes taking off . It was an awesome sight.
When arrived back we were able to see sharks and many other fish that come to the boat
When arrived back we were able to see sharks and many other fish that come to the boat
There was a shark cage that we could dived in if we wanted to to be at one with them but we all opted not to do that as the cage was in the middle of the deck and there was oil from the boat engines floating on the surface. As hot as it was the water in that cage was not very inviting. That was a shame as we were all looking forward to that part of the tour.
After all that excitement it was breakfast time. We were beginning to feel rushed as we didn't have time to finish eating and drinking properly before it was time to get back on the boat and go see the falls.
It was 'Hang on to your saddle time' We took off like a rocket and they were right... This IS the fasted boat in the Kimberley. We have posted these larger movies on UTube as it saves the download time. Movie of the still water before he raging current. Click on the link below http://youtu.be/iTKrMCNfdyo Just nosing up to the gap
What a BUZZ it was..
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As we approached the falls the water started to swirl and form many many whirlpools. It some one were to fall in there is no way that they could have swam out of it
Another U tube link..It was really hard to film and take photos with the boat moving so fast. It was a real adrenalin rush... We went back and forth through those falls 360 turn at high speed in heavy turbulance????? What a BUZZ it was..
Click on the link below to see our videos http://youtu.be/JYlnzzVXyCs |
Click on the link below to see our videos
Getting closer to the action and we could really feel the power of the water moving the boat around. Skipper said that he had to maintain a speed of 38knots in order to stay in one place against the current. He was very skillful.
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There are two sets of falls... A wide opening and a narrow opening. Both feed in and out of Talbot bay as the tide rises and falls.
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All good things must come to an end and this exhilarating experience was over too soon.
There is only a small window in time that the falls can be crossed in this way.
As the tide rises it becomes too dangerous. G forces take over.
It is hard to show the REAL thing on film but it was sensational..
There is only a small window in time that the falls can be crossed in this way.
As the tide rises it becomes too dangerous. G forces take over.
It is hard to show the REAL thing on film but it was sensational..
Another high speed ride back to the pontoon and it was a case of 'All back on the plane.' for our next stop which was on the way back to Broome 'One Arm Point' fish hatchery.
We flew over the falls one more time the flight back was very low. Just 200 metres above the ground.
He banked the aircraft again and we got to see the most fantastic views as we wound our way along the water ways.
We flew over the falls one more time the flight back was very low. Just 200 metres above the ground.
He banked the aircraft again and we got to see the most fantastic views as we wound our way along the water ways.
This turtle was so curious..
I am hoping that when we get to Coral that we get to see some up close in their natural environment. The Turtle nesting season is just starting and parts of the beaches along the coast have been closed off to the public to protect them.
We had about 20 minutes to look around here and then we were all whisked back on the bus and made a run for Cape Leveque The Road was horrendous and we were bounced around like rag dolls. The sea plane was much nicer.
Cape Leveque
We had lunch at Cape Leveque and after lunch had less than 5 minutes to look around. We went on to the beach to take photos and were all back in the bus within a few minutes...
I am hoping that when we get to Coral that we get to see some up close in their natural environment. The Turtle nesting season is just starting and parts of the beaches along the coast have been closed off to the public to protect them.
We had about 20 minutes to look around here and then we were all whisked back on the bus and made a run for Cape Leveque The Road was horrendous and we were bounced around like rag dolls. The sea plane was much nicer.
Cape Leveque
We had lunch at Cape Leveque and after lunch had less than 5 minutes to look around. We went on to the beach to take photos and were all back in the bus within a few minutes...
Us on our 2 minute time slot for Cape Leveque Beach.
We had seen it before so it didn't really matter that much but for those who hadn't seen it before it would have been disappointing. I think our driver just wanted to go home to bed... |
It was another hair raising drive to out next and final stop at Beagle Bay to view the church there.
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Beagle Bay
We had also seen the church at Beagle Bay before and it is a truly beautiful work of art. It is decorated throughout with shells and the altar is encrusted with mother of pearl. It is beautiful and so well cared for.
It is the best cared for building here and if not for the Church, I believe that this town would die.
I really enjoyed re visiting this lovely church and just to sit on a pew and wonder was such a peaceful experience.
We had also seen the church at Beagle Bay before and it is a truly beautiful work of art. It is decorated throughout with shells and the altar is encrusted with mother of pearl. It is beautiful and so well cared for.
It is the best cared for building here and if not for the Church, I believe that this town would die.
I really enjoyed re visiting this lovely church and just to sit on a pew and wonder was such a peaceful experience.
What can I say?? This has to be one of the simplest but most beautiful altars in the world..
ALL BACK ON THE BUS!!!!!
Gladly, we arrived back to camp safely . We settled down to a nice meal and a few glasses of vino before crashing early .
Drying his chlorine soaked wings
Next day at the pool we had a cheeky little visitor who seemed some what disorientated and decided to come and look for fish .A Black Cormorant joined us while we were swimming and was diving as if searching for fish. He also seemed to enjoy playing around the children who were fascinated with him. I have never seen a Cormorant behave like that before. What a character he was.. followed us around the pool and responded in a playful manner.
He wandered from pool to pool and was having a great time. It took him a while before he finally realised that this was a swimming pool. The only thing he would find here would be fascinated human beings. One so fascinated, that he tried his hand at diving food as well. -> -> -> -> -> -> -> -> This told me it must be nearly lunchtime.. |
We were invited to go to Allan and Donna's for dinner a couple of nights later and while we were there a baby bird fell from its next onto the pathway. Immediately a group of Friar Birds swooped down and tried to attack the poor defenseless thing
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I picked it up and its little heart was beating so fast that I really thought it was going to die right the from fright. It was only just starting to flutter so it was probably bout 3-4 weeks at the most. It looked like a Honey Eater chick but I was not sure so decided to give it some water to keep it hydrated. If I tried to feed it and gave it the wrong food it wold die for sure. I used a tissue, soaked it in water and squuzed out a few drops at a time into its mouth. It seemed to be quite happy to take it from me and it's little heart was no longer pounding so it was calming down. We got a cardboard box and a towel and some paper towel and made it a nice cosy warm bed for the night. Checked on him every 30 minutes or so and offered him mire water. When we left to go back to our camper we took him with us.. I had an eye dropper in my first aid box and that made it much easier to feed him. His box was in with with us and he settled for the night. We were awoken by the lovely sound of a very much alive chirping chick... He had made it through the night so we called the local wild life carer and took him straight there after another drink.. he was VERY VERY by this stage and the carer was going to hand raise him until he could look after himself... We named him 'Broome' and as far as I know he is doing well and due to be released soon...
It as getting close to moving on time and we went out to Sunsets Bar and Grill for Dinner the night before we were due to leave. It was a great night and food was to die for. We sat over looking the ocean as the sun went down What more could you want.
We said our farewells and hope to see them soon at Coral Bay if then hopefully when they come to Perth.
I felt sad but it was time to leave
I felt sad but it was time to leave
Coral Bay is THAT way..Here we come
Goodbye Broome... We will be back..
Goodbye Broome... We will be back..
We left Broome after 4 glorious weeks of sunshine on 10th October and headed for Coral Bay. We were going to make 2 stops but we decided at the last minute to have a long days driving and make just one stop and the stop turned out to be Point Samson.We didn't get there till late and as soon as we were set up we showered and went over to the pub for some of the famous Point Samson fish'n'chips. It was an early night for us as we had another long day coming up.
Coral Bay' taken with our 360 Panorama Ap on the iphone
We were lucky and managed to get in early at Coral Bay but at a different camp, Bayview Caravan Park, but only for 2 nights until we could take up our booking at Peoples Park which where had stayed before so knew it was the nice there.
Of course as soon as we were set up we headed for the water front and sat in the beer garden over looking the ocean and watched the sun go down.
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It was quite a relief to escape the humidity of Broome. As nice as it was, each day became hotter and hotter and the sand flies were savages.There was not even a mozzie in Coral Bay. Just the odd fly here and there.
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The history of Coral Bay begins at "Maud's Landing", which was the landing of the schooner Maud in 1884. That is the earliest recorded European activity in the area
In 1915 the town was officially named Maud's Landing and played a big part in the settlement and growth of North Western Australia. There was a woolshed and jetty which included a tramway that serviced the local farmers in the supplies and in the outward shipment of wool and sheep up until 1947. Wood from the jetty was taken away and used at the whaling station at Ningaloo station near point Cloates. Only old pilings from the jetty remain today.
In 1915 the town was officially named Maud's Landing and played a big part in the settlement and growth of North Western Australia. There was a woolshed and jetty which included a tramway that serviced the local farmers in the supplies and in the outward shipment of wool and sheep up until 1947. Wood from the jetty was taken away and used at the whaling station at Ningaloo station near point Cloates. Only old pilings from the jetty remain today.
Three kilometres to the south of Maud's Landing a very beautiful bay called Bill's bay and it fast became a popular recreational area for both locals and the more adventurous fishermen. Bills Bay was named after Ruby French, affectionately called 'auntie Billie'. She was the wife of Charles French, who owned Cardabia Station, the property surrounding Maud's Landing and Bills Bay.
The first building in Bills Bay was a holiday shack built in 1933 by Jack McKenna, the manager of Mia Mia station and used by him as a summer coastal retreat.
It was not until 1968 that formal settlement began at Bills Bay with the establishment of a hotel, caravan park and a service station. The Hotel was named the Coral Bay Hotel probably because of the outstanding Coral Reef. Consequently the settlement became known as Coral Bay.
It was not until 1968 that formal settlement began at Bills Bay with the establishment of a hotel, caravan park and a service station. The Hotel was named the Coral Bay Hotel probably because of the outstanding Coral Reef. Consequently the settlement became known as Coral Bay.
As we can see Greg is getting all hyped up and ready to take on the challenges that lie ahead. It's not good for your health to become over excited. The snorkeling here is right off the beach. We could just walk in and just few metres out was the most beautiful Coral and lots of different fish. We preferred the waters to the left around where the boats are. Boats are only allowed to moor in one spot so that the constant comings and goings do not damage the corals. The general public are not permitted to bring boats into the bay. Tour operators can but have to abide by very strict controls...
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The main object of our stay here was to unwind and get ready for our return home.We had visited Coral Bay before and knew exactly what was waiting for us. This had to be the most relaxing places ever. The days just flew past.
Busy doing nothing, isn't it just a crime? We'd like to be unhappy but We never do have the time. |
Hmmm! That looks like a good snorkeling spot
I got the job of taking the photos of the Corals and the beautiful fish..
In between the water activities there were always the little birds to feed that were constant visitors while we were at the camper. These cheeky little visitors are called 'Yellow Throated Minors' and when we first arrived they started to swoop us as they had young in the nest in three next to us. We offered them some food and before we knew it they were feeding out of our hands.
They liked Blackcurrant Jam with dry bread and Muesli. They are tough little critters and will scare off a Seagull without hesitation. Even the crows got a pecking if they dared threaten them. This little movie is in 3 parts..
And then..... The day before we were due to leave they brought the baby with them. It was just a fledgling learning how to find food and also leaning how to give you the sad eyes look until he got some. This little chap very quickly learned how to peck a hole trough a bread wrapper. He fluttered in right under our noses as we sat at the table and proceeded to try and get into the loaf ... Mum and Dad were there to show him... He is definately a street wise little survivor already..
When a local builder, Marty found a little joey alive and well in the pouch of its dead mother, who had been hit by a car, he would never have thought that a few months later he’d have another mate to go swimming and mud-crabbing with.
But that’s exactly what happened. Marty took three month old Solo – so named because when he was found he was completely alone in the world – to the vet and was given advice on a good formula to feed the little one, who weighed just over a kilo. A stroke of genius on Marty’s part meant that Solo still had a pouch to climb into when he was tired; a woolen jumper tied around Marty’s chest. Locals grew used to seeing Marty and Solo around town, even at the pub. At night he hung the ‘pouch’ up in the shed, and Solo slept happily through the night. |
During the days, Solo would hop around behind with Marty’s dog. And this is where he seemed to get the idea that he, in fact, was also a dog. He joined them for mud-crabbing and swimming adventures. He went everywhere they went. Marty did not want to tame Solo so he was relieved when Solo made cutting the cord a lot easier for Marty by doing what most young boys do as they grow into men; he hadn’t come home from the night before. |
He can still be seen around the region and unlike some of the red kangaroos in Coral Bay, he’s fluffy and dark grey, and at last measurement, about three feet high . The staff at the Ningaloo Resort know him well. What a great little story... |
Our good friends Allan and Donna arrived on our second week but stayed at the Bay View Park as they had little Toby, their dog with them and Peoples Park is strictly no pets.
It was so good to see them again and we spent quite a lot of time with them on the beach and generally hanging out for the 5 days they were there. It was also good to see Toby again. That's Toby asleep on the blanket under the umbrella. Wow..It was glorious just lazing around in the sunshine with nothing in particular to do |
And for any one who doesn't already know... This is how you do nothing in particular
There was a nice Italian Restaurant very close to where we were camped. In fact everything was very close to where we were camped as Coral Bay is a very small place.
We had a farewell dinner there on their last night but there is no doubt that we will see these guys again . |
They are due to come to Perth in November/December so it wont be long....Good Times! |
It is alway sad to leave a place but some are sadder than others. Greg liked it so much that he would go there to read the paper.
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Regardless of the bad back we took a stroll up to the lookout for one last look. It was very emotional as it marked the final day of what had been the most fantastic trip of out lifetimes. If we could have stayed here a while longer we would have but everything has to end and delaying the inevitable would no t have helped. We have booked to come back next year.
We we got most things organised the night before so in the morning it didn't have to mess around.
We just got up got dressed etc, folded up the pre prepared camper, hitched it up and hit the road..
Stopping at the amazing Coral Bay Bakery for take away coffees and hot croissants for an 'eat in the car' breakfast.
Comfort Food!
We just got up got dressed etc, folded up the pre prepared camper, hitched it up and hit the road..
Stopping at the amazing Coral Bay Bakery for take away coffees and hot croissants for an 'eat in the car' breakfast.
Comfort Food!
The first hour of the journey was very quiet..Neither of us really felt like talking much. It was kind of like being in mourning.. I know that sounds silly but in actual fact that is how we both felt. Then gradually of course we started to converse about all the places we had seen and all the things we had done..Some really funny moments and some really scary ones too.
The map shows our tracking. The squiggly bits are because we had to zigzag to keep ahead of the 2012 NSW floods..
During our 15months on the road we have camped in over 120 different places. Crossed the Nullabor and seen the Great Australian Bite . Picked up our brand new AORC Camper Trailer in Queensland. Took a jet boat ride and got soaked on the Gold Coast. Attended to 2 Off Road meets , one at Silverton and one at Baradine. We got SNOWED on at Glenn Innes and experienced the hot springs at Moree. Went to the back of Bourke Spent a week in the Blue Mountains and did the cable cars etc, Willie retreat and Coolah Tops, The Tamworth Music Festival. Got caught up in the 2012 NSW Floods and thought we might get washed away. We saw the Twelve Apostles and the amazing Great Ocean Road. There was the awesome Daintree as well the NSW rain forests. So many spectacular water falls all through the NSW National Parks along Waterfall Way. Paronella Park was incredible, Cairns and The scenic railways there and Port Douglas. Cook Town, Back of beyond at Coen. We also made it to Cape York which is the Northern most place in Australia.. Stretched it a bit further and took the ferry up to Thursday Island. There was Hells Gate and Daly Waters, The thermal springs at Mataranka, Darwin and Litchfield. Kakadu and Katherine Gorge.. The list goes on and on. Never for one moment were we bored..Kununura, Parry Creek, Larawa Station, Fitzroy Crossing, Broome,Cable Beach. Exmouth and of Course Coral Bay..The under water paradise.These are just a few of the places that we saw...There is so much to see and do and we barely scratched the surface.
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During our 15months on the road we have camped in over 120 different places. Crossed the Nullabor and seen the Great Australian Bite . Picked up our brand new AORC Camper Trailer in Queensland. Took a jet boat ride and got soaked on the Gold Coast. Attended to 2 Off Road meets , one at Silverton and one at Baradine. We got SNOWED on at Glenn Innes and experienced the hot springs at Moree. Went to the back of Bourke Spent a week in the Blue Mountains and did the cable cars etc, Willie retreat and Coolah Tops, The Tamworth Music Festival. Got caught up in the 2012 NSW Floods and thought we might get washed away. We saw the Twelve Apostles and the amazing Great Ocean Road. There was the awesome Daintree as well the NSW rain forests. So many spectacular water falls all through the NSW National Parks along Waterfall Way. Paronella Park was incredible, Cairns and The scenic railways there and Port Douglas. Cook Town, Back of beyond at Coen. We also made it to Cape York which is the Northern most place in Australia.. Stretched it a bit further and took the ferry up to Thursday Island. There was Hells Gate and Daly Waters, The thermal springs at Mataranka, Darwin and Litchfield. Kakadu and Katherine Gorge.. The list goes on and on. Never for one moment were we bored..Kununura, Parry Creek, Larawa Station, Fitzroy Crossing, Broome,Cable Beach. Exmouth and of Course Coral Bay..The under water paradise.These are just a few of the places that we saw...There is so much to see and do and we barely scratched the surface.
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THE GOOD, THE BAD AND THE UGLY
The Beautiful Blue Wren has long been my favourite bird of all and there were plenty to be seen around the country.
They are not city birds... They like the open woodlands and low foliage
The only country place that I had never seen on is in Serpentine where I live.
They have eluded me there.
They are not city birds... They like the open woodlands and low foliage
The only country place that I had never seen on is in Serpentine where I live.
They have eluded me there.
During our 45000 kilometres, we made around 90 fuel stops paying anything from $1.38 - $2.15 per litre... We bought around 6500 litres of fuel... had 3 flat tyres, 1 broken side window and a crushed rear bumper and a very dirty camper.
We both celebrated our last two birthdays, plus Christmas and New Year away from home. Greg has become a very proficient snorkeler and I have conquered my wooden slatted bridge phobia. Two big milestones for us. We saw a road train jackknifed on a narrow gravel road and witnessed it's removal by heavy mining plant machinery. We saw waterfalls coming down the rock face on the road side and torrents of water washing across the road and down the precipice the other side during the floods. The rain was so heavy that you could not see 2 metres in front of you. I can't even begin to say more......So much too see and so little time to see it....
We both celebrated our last two birthdays, plus Christmas and New Year away from home. Greg has become a very proficient snorkeler and I have conquered my wooden slatted bridge phobia. Two big milestones for us. We saw a road train jackknifed on a narrow gravel road and witnessed it's removal by heavy mining plant machinery. We saw waterfalls coming down the rock face on the road side and torrents of water washing across the road and down the precipice the other side during the floods. The rain was so heavy that you could not see 2 metres in front of you. I can't even begin to say more......So much too see and so little time to see it....
But it was a bed for the night and no camper to set up.. We also got to watch TV for the first time in a very long time..
It might have been a dump but we slept like logs. We were back on the road bright and early next morning and we were now just a couple of hours from home when we saw THIS!!!>>>>>>>>>
OH Noooo! A traffic light. It had been so long since we had seen one that it was foreign to us.
There were more of them and queues of traffic and noisy trucks and motor bikes zooming all over the place. Aaaaaghhhh!!!! How soon we forget. As we got closer to home we became nervous and emotional but driving into the village was so nice. We had also forgotten how nice our village is. Our gardens were all nicely cared for by our amazing neighbours. What a great bunch of people they are. The house looked huge to us after the camper but we soon adjusted. We did some unpacking and then sat and a had a few drinks on our back deck with neighbours to catch up with lost times. When they had gone we decided not to any more unpacking but instead to go and sit on the front veranda until it got dark..and as we sat there, as if by magic he appeared in front of us on the native bush. The first one I have ever seen here and he chose this to show himself. I grabbed my phone and took this pic. Not the clearest but I got it. The Blue Wrens have arrived in our garden to welcome us home
OH Noooo! A traffic light. It had been so long since we had seen one that it was foreign to us.
There were more of them and queues of traffic and noisy trucks and motor bikes zooming all over the place. Aaaaaghhhh!!!! How soon we forget. As we got closer to home we became nervous and emotional but driving into the village was so nice. We had also forgotten how nice our village is. Our gardens were all nicely cared for by our amazing neighbours. What a great bunch of people they are. The house looked huge to us after the camper but we soon adjusted. We did some unpacking and then sat and a had a few drinks on our back deck with neighbours to catch up with lost times. When they had gone we decided not to any more unpacking but instead to go and sit on the front veranda until it got dark..and as we sat there, as if by magic he appeared in front of us on the native bush. The first one I have ever seen here and he chose this to show himself. I grabbed my phone and took this pic. Not the clearest but I got it. The Blue Wrens have arrived in our garden to welcome us home
There were several of them fluttering around and suddenly coming home felt so much better.