TOUR FROM BROOME to KIMBERLY back to BROOME 2009
This trip had been almost 2 years in the planning. We had decided that it was for us at the Perth Caravan and Camping Expo in 2007. We were totally green and didn't even have a 4WD but going off road and seeing the 'real' Australia was something that we had both always wanted to do but , did not have the confidence or the know how to take a 4WD into the outback alone. We booked it then and there and spent the next 12 months setting ourselves up with all the gear we needed. We went for a Toyota Hilux SR5 Dual cab Turbo Diesel and had some modifications done to it. We also invested in an OZTENT RV5 which turned out to be an excellent choice. We went off and 'practiced camped' a few times just to make sure that we were no longer totally green. After what seemed like an eternity of looking forward to it ,June finally arrived and we were all packed to make our way up to Broome. We were both so excited, just like little kids at Christmas time. We took 3 days to drive up so that we could see some country side along the way but our main objective on this trip was to get to Broome and veg out for a day or two before leaving for the Kimberley on the 3rd day we decided to drive straight through from Newman rather than stop over night at Pardoo Roadhouse as originally planned. We called in at Pardoo Roadhouse to get fuel and on seeing the place we were glad that we had decided not to stay. The units were old and very run down. We got to Broome late afternoon and checked in to our apartment at the Ocean Lodge Resort. It was very nice and had a nice pool there. The following day we spent shopping for meat and fresh food for the trip. We bought bulk meat, froze it down in the apartment freezer and vacuum sealed it with the food saver that we taken with us. The meat lasted us for the whole 23 days in the Engel.
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'Get to know you' BBQ
The evening before the tour began our tour guides, John and Sue organised a 'Get to know you' BBQ on Broome Beach.There were 8 other vehicles. We did not get off to very good start as we got lost trying to find the group and ended up driving too far along the beach past a 'NO VEHICLES BEYOND THIS POINT ZONE'. sign and into sands unknown. Not only that, but in our hurry we hit 60kph in a 15kph beach zone. Our tour guide John saw us flash past and called us on the mobile to tell us we were not only out of bounds but speeding too. We turned around and came back before the ranger spotted us. That was little scary as the sand was getting soft and we had no experience at driving in soft sand. Luckily we made it OK and found the rest of the group all nice and relaxed and sitting in a circle behind Johns vehicle. They were a very mixed bunch of people ranging from Doctor, nurses, Schoolteacher,Electricians, Farmer , IT Pro and a sprinkling of retirees. They were a good mix and the makings of what was going to be great trip. John and Sue put on a very nice meal and while the was setting we were briefed on the do's and don't's and what to expect over the next few weeks. We were given our 'Broome Tagalong' shirts, caps & stubby holders. We drew numbers to determine our position in the line tomorrow. We drew number 4 for the 8am assembly in the morning.
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The next morning by 8am all the vehicles were assembled by the airport ready to go in the numerical order that they had drawn. As number 4 we were automatically assigned the job of passing on any radio messages that the drivers behind us may not receive Each day we all moved back one place in line so that each of us would take a turn at 'Tail End Charlie' who's job was to copy all radio messages from car no:1 to ensure all vehicles had received it. After a radio check and another briefing we got into line and almost immediately left the bitumen and headed off road into the red dust to our first stop. ********** |
WILLIE CREEK PEARL FARM
Our first stop at The Willie Creek Pearl Farm. Here were given a guided tour of the farm and learned all about how pearls are produced. One of our group even got to tickle an Oyster's Gonad. By the time we left there we were all experts on Pearl production. We were taken on a cruise along Willie Creek and saw the Oyster beds and the Mangrove lined waterways which were abundant with mud crabs and bird life. This was a thoroughly enjoyable morning which was capped off with a morning tea of tea, coffee and home made Damper back at the Pearl Farm.
MERCEDES COVE
We stopped at Middle Lagoon, Pender Bay, where Lenny and Jacinta O'Meara, run the Whale Song retreat and cafe at Munget community. Jacinta became known as "the cake lady" as she drove around the peninsula selling her home-baked sand-dune slices from her grandmother's Dutch recipe.
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Mercedes Cove
We continued off road to our second stop. A beautiful little spot called Mercedes Cove. This land is leased to Aboriginal Community for them to make good of. They have created a very nice little camping area right on the cliff top over looking the ocean. This campsite is reserved only for tour operators and the owner will not allow big crowds of people to stay there. When we arrived we had our tents up in no time and were all in the ocean cooling off within a few minutes. It was absolutely beautiful.Then we gathered around the campfire for some drinks, exchanged stories, talked about the day and cooked BBQ. John briefed us on the next day and we were all tucked up in bed by 9pm
sleeping like babies! **********
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OFF TO CAPE LEVEQUE
This was the view from the door of our tent. We had a perfect uninterrupted view of the coastline.
We would get up in the morning and this is what greeted us. It was awesome. What a nice way to have breakfast and start the day. The view just went on for ever and ever. The rock was sandstone that had been eroded by the salt water over millions of years to form a smooth finish that would change colour as the sun shone on it .At dusk we had the pleasure of watching the sun set from our tent. The cliffs were changing colour before our eyes, varying from pink, orange to dark red. It was breathtaking.
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We would get up in the morning and this is what greeted us. It was awesome. What a nice way to have breakfast and start the day. The view just went on for ever and ever. The rock was sandstone that had been eroded by the salt water over millions of years to form a smooth finish that would change colour as the sun shone on it .At dusk we had the pleasure of watching the sun set from our tent. The cliffs were changing colour before our eyes, varying from pink, orange to dark red. It was breathtaking.
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Here we all drove down as it was a long walk and met on the beach for a sun downer each taking our own nibbles and drinks. We were now gradually remembering everyone's names and the playful bantering had started which was a good sign as it meant that we were getting more comfortable in each others company. Just sitting there on the beach watching the world go by was just what we needed to relax at the end of the day. The view was fantastic. How could we not be relaxed? Mind you, I think the wine did help with that.
It was so warm. We were tempted to go swimming but decided against it. We were too comfy in our chairs to go back to camp and get changed.
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It was so warm. We were tempted to go swimming but decided against it. We were too comfy in our chairs to go back to camp and get changed.
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Does it get any better?
The sun downer was very pleasant and the sunset was spectacular, but the best part was that dinner at the camp restaurant was organised so we didn't have to worry about cooking.
The Restaurant was very nice and we had good time.
Great steaks!
No washing up!
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The Restaurant was very nice and we had good time.
Great steaks!
No washing up!
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HUNTER STATION ABORIGINAL CULTURE TOUR
We left Cape Leveque (Kooljaman) at 8am and headed off road to The Hunter Station which is owned by Stanley, an aboriginal from the Bardi Community, who is making a living by opening his property to tour groups where he talks about Indigenous culture and show groups the traditional way of cooking and hunting etc.The general public are not allowed in here as it is private property.The drive through Stanleys place is amazing. The silver sand stretches for as far as the eye can see. Stanley took us out to a place called 'One Armed Point where we had spectacular views of the Buccaneer Archipelago and learned about the massive tides that sweep oner the islands. There he gave us informative talk about the ways of the Bardi people and their history, We then went to a fishing and swimming spot where Stanley and one of our group managed to catch two fish that Stanley BBQ'd and explained how to make authentic damper. The damper that he had with him was made fresh this morning by his mother in the traditional manner. We ate it with butter and jam, scooped cups of boiling water from a billy to make tea . No frills here. The fish was cooked on an open campfire under Stanleys favourite shady tree, and tasted wonderful.
The beaches are pristine and water is warm and clear. We had our first experience of Sand dune driving and learned all about lowering tyre pressures and why we need to reduce pressure on soft sand.
The experience was exhilarating to say the least. It certainly got the adrenalin pumping. At the end of the soft sand drive we stopped for a swim on Stanleys private beach
The experience was exhilarating to say the least. It certainly got the adrenalin pumping. At the end of the soft sand drive we stopped for a swim on Stanleys private beach
DERBY, HERE WE COME
All the pressures of off road driving coupled with the heat and the dust was already getting to the men. They started to form groups at the front ends of vehicles Much Hummming, Arrrinng, nodding and scratching of heads went on during these rituals. The ritual induced a trance like state that appeared to leave them unable to speak coherently. The powers of speech only returned after the drinking of copious amounts of beer. ********** |
THE DERBY PRISON BOAB TREE
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After morning tea was over and it was on to the Prison Boab Tree. The tree is hollow and up to 25 Aboriginals would be locked in there in transit, to stop them escaping. The hollow would be no larger than a small garden shed.
Prisoners would have had to stand, packed in like sardines as there was no room to sit or lie. Not nice! The significance of the Prison Boab Tree derives from this reputed use as a resting point for Police and escorted Aboriginal prisoners en route to Derby but is lesser known for its connections with Aboriginal traditional religious beliefs. The Prison Boab is protected under the Aboriginal Heritage act of 1972. ********** |
DERBY JETTY
We arrived in Derby late afternoon. The township is quite small and very old looking. There is a Port and jetty but at low tide the river bed is very muddy. The Port Facility opened in 1979 and was primarily used to export Zinc and Lead concentrates to the USA, India, Korea and Europe to be used in Galvanising, medical products and batteries. Derby is situated in King Sound and hosts one the highest tides in the world peaking at 11.8 metres.
We stayed overnight at the Derby Caravan and Camping site. We found it to be very over crowded. and very noisy We were not allowed to have a campfire which was disappointing as one of the nicest things about the evenings is that we could all sit around the fire at night, talk about the day and what would be happening the next day and have a few jokes together over a wine or two. while our dinners cooked in our camp ovens on the fire. We couldn't wait to leave Derby and experience the Gibb River Rd and the Kimberley that we had heard so much about. Bells Gorge was our next camp stop. This would also be our first night camping in the actual Kimberley. We had heard how lovely Bells Gorge is and looked forward to seeing for ourselves. Hopefully we would even spot some Dingos there.
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GIBB RIVER ROAD to BELLS and MANNING GORGES.
Luckily for us the Gibb River Road had been recently regraded so the potholes were less intense than normal. We still had a lot of dust to drive through from the vehicles in front. We learned to keep a good distance from the car in front but it did not minimise the dust we gathered. It just made it easier to see. About an hour into the Gibb River we flicked up a stone and it cracked our windscreen. It was a about 10cm long. Our tour guide John dipped into his bag of tricks and produced a windscreen repair kit which was new from Windscreens O'brien. It was the first time he had tried it. After a team effort, it was fixed and we were back on the road in around 20 minutes. We were impressed.
Lennard River Bridge Snack Shop
The road got dustier and dustier and then right in the middle of nowhere, like an oasis,there appeared 'THE LENNARD RIVER BRIDGE SNACK SHOP" ' The group all pulled in here to have a pie for lunch. It was unbelievable. It consisted of some old caravans and corrugated tin sheeting and shade cloth virtually just tacked together. It was right next to the river where the Salt water crocodiles hung out. What a place this was. Each time a vehicle passed we were doused in red dust, so were our pies. But it all goes down the same way and we just got stuck in and enjoyed the meal break while trying to keep our eyes open for pie stealing crocs. A rough and ready stop but we thoroughly enjoyed it. The owner was a really friendly kind of guy that you couldn't help but like. But time was getting on and we were off our way to the The Bells Gorge Campsite.
In the wet season the snack shop closes and the owners move away as the river bursts it's banks, covering the bridge and surrounding areas. Sometimes traffic has to wait for the waters to subside before it can move through
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Lennard River to Bells Gorge continued as dust bath but gradually the dust settled and the journey unfolded into a beautiful scenic drive. We had several stops along the way at various look out points to take photos but photos alone cannot possibly depict the absolute vastness of it all and this was just the beginning. We also had a couple of water crossings along this drive that was something we had never done before. We were supervised on the first drive through and shown how to cross the creeks safely. It was great fun and got the old heart pumping.
Each day just before we arrive at our campsite we have a firewood collection stop. We are only permitted to use dead wood or fallen trees and only in the areas allocated by The National Parks for firewood collection. It is a team effort. The men find and cut the wood into manageable sized pieces and the women find and collect the kindling. It is loaded on to Johns roof rack and then unloaded as soon as we get to camp at our campfire pit
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BELLS GORGE CAMPSITE
Bells Gorge Camping Site is situated in the National Park. It is ideally positioned on the scarp and close to some beautiful Gorges and historical sites.The view from the campsite is stunning especially at sunset and sunrise. We were able to light a campfire here which is a relaxing and very pleasant way to end the day. We were going to bed much earlier than we would at home and sleeping right through until we had to rise and shine. We actually did have our first Dingo encounter here. While we were sleeping the Dingos came to our spot and stole some yellow straps that we had showing in an unzipped storage bag at the back of the tent.It must have been the colour that attracted them. We now know to zip up everything when we go bed. Even the crows will peck a hole in the tent if they sense that there is food inside. We only stayed one night and left early in the morning to visit the local gorges and water holes. We trekked there as they are only accessible on foot. We were able to swim in natures lagoons that we had previously only seen in movies and travel magazines.
BELLS GORGE
We spent the morning in and around Bells Gorge and seeing it for for first time did not disappoint us. It is a remote place that can only be reached on foot .The hike down was not as bad as we had expected and the scenery on the way was spectacular. The water in the lagoon was quite warm and there many small rock pools that non swimmers could just lie in and cool off. Our next stop would be Galvans Gorge. Another lagoon, another swim spot......Aaahhh!! Luxury!
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GALVANS GORGE
We arrived at Galvans Gorge around 1.30 and once again this place can only be reached on foot. It is another little Oasis hidden away . When we reached the Gorge we found that it was a little lagoon and there were a few people in the water and some had swam over to the rocks and were lazing in the sun. Our group were all over 50, a couple were over 70 and when we arrived I think the young bikini clad babes on the rocks were surprised to see the antics that some of our people got up to. There were people laughing and giggling like teenagers and jumping in and out of the water. A diving competition broke out and big cheers echoed through Gorge as our man David won the day. The water was so warm and clear. It felt like a kind of Paradise. There were trees and ferns growing out of the rocks that overhung the water. I wanted to pinch my self to make sure that I wasn't dreaming. This was totally awesome. Mmmmmmm!.
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To Mitchell Falls.
We left The Barnett Road house at 8am and continued along the Gibb River Road and within the first hour we had crossed 3 creeks. We were now getting very good at the water crossings. Practice makes perfect as they say. No matter how wide or narrow or deep or lumpy, we just loved the water crossings. The creeks are all different and have their own beauty. Each time we crossed we hoped to see a Crocodile but as yet there was no sign of any. We are still being assured that we will see plenty later in the tour. We drove through a creek called Mistake Creek. It was quite a deep one. Driving through this stretch of the Gibb River you have no idea what kind of road surface you are on as it is so dusty that you can't see very much at all..
We called in at the Drysdale River Station Roadhouse for a short comfort stop. This Road house is very very remote. It has just one old fuel pump. We hadn't seen any other cars for a very long time but here at this far away place in the middle of nowhere there seemed to 1000's of people. I have no idea where they all sprung from.
After a 1.30m lunch stop we pressed on to camp. On the way we had to do a HUGE water crossing. It was probably not huge at all but it certainly seemed like to us rookies. We arrived at The King Edward Camping site at 2.30. .
We called in at the Drysdale River Station Roadhouse for a short comfort stop. This Road house is very very remote. It has just one old fuel pump. We hadn't seen any other cars for a very long time but here at this far away place in the middle of nowhere there seemed to 1000's of people. I have no idea where they all sprung from.
After a 1.30m lunch stop we pressed on to camp. On the way we had to do a HUGE water crossing. It was probably not huge at all but it certainly seemed like to us rookies. We arrived at The King Edward Camping site at 2.30. .
KING EDWARD RIVER AND MITCHELL FALLS
We arrived at King Edward Bush camp and within 30 minutes after arriving at the camp we were all set up on the walk trail to the lagoon for a swim in the rock pool. It was a very welcome site after a hot dusty day. The tepid crystal clear water ran gently through the stream keeping the water at a very pleasant temperature.. It was so peaceful there. Palms hung over the water and created a natural shade from the fierce sunshine. All that could be heard was the trickling of the water over the stones and the birds twittering. We were very comfortable and stayed in the water for about an hour before walking back to camp. Once again we could light a fire so we had a campfire to look forward to and another culinary delight to be made in our camp oven
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The King Edward River camping site was very
nice. Another Bush Camp which made it nice
and spacious. Bush camps do not have all the
mod cons that resort sites have but they also
don't have as many people which is a big plus
as far as we are concerned. Most have toilets
of varying kinds and some even have showers.
The site is by the river and just a short walk
from camp over some rocks to the waters edge.
Here we had a resident 1 metre Goanna that
wandered around camp with no fear of humans.
We have to store our rubbish now until we get
to El Questro
nice. Another Bush Camp which made it nice
and spacious. Bush camps do not have all the
mod cons that resort sites have but they also
don't have as many people which is a big plus
as far as we are concerned. Most have toilets
of varying kinds and some even have showers.
The site is by the river and just a short walk
from camp over some rocks to the waters edge.
Here we had a resident 1 metre Goanna that
wandered around camp with no fear of humans.
We have to store our rubbish now until we get
to El Questro
King Edward River and Mitchell Falls
When we emerged into this magical place we felt as if we were on a movie set. We could climb behind the falls catch the cooling mist as the water cascaded down in front of us. The fine spray from the cascading water formed rainbows through the trees. We could have easily stayed here all day but we still had a way to go to Mitchell Falls.
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THE WAY UP TO AND INCLUDING MITCHELL FALLS
The rest of the walk to the falls was mainly up hill. We took it slowly as there was much to see along the way. We used camel back packs so that we would have plenty of water to drink. It is much easier than carrying water bottles.
AND THEN IN MIDDLE OF THIS GUESS WHAT WE CAME ACROSS
YES YOU GUESSED IT!
A WATER LILY POND IN FULL FLOWER ABUNDANT WITH SMALL FISH.
IT WAS THE LAST THING WE EXPECTED TO SEE THERE.
IT WAS LOVELY.
Some of us decided not to walk but but to take the Chopper Taxi back to Camp. I was one of those who took the easy way, but under the guise that I wanted to take Ariel photos of the Falls. The experience was out of this world.
THE DRYSDALE RIVER BUSH CAMP.
Mitchell Falls was amazing experience but after another fantastic evening around the campfire we prepared to set off early in the morning to the Drysdale River Bush Camp on our way to El Questro..
The Drysdale River Bush Camp was very spacious and very quiet. We liked it here but next time we would bring our own portable Toilet. There are no showers here and the toilets are not the best. But we would come here again regardless of those things. It was a pretty place. Plus It was a great campfire spot.
THE ROAD TO EL QUESTRO.
The road into El Questro was quite rough but very scenic. We were going to be staying here 3 nights there so it would give us a chance to catch up with some laundry that was beginning to build up and dump our rubbish. We left Drysdale River around 8am and headed off in the direction of Wyndham for El Questro. The rubbish was dumped at the rubbish disposal spot not long after we hit the Gibb river road again which seems to go on for ever. We drove through the Durack Ranges and the Pentecost Blue ranges. We also passed a sign to 'Gregory's Jump Up but Greg wasn't interested in going down there and jumping up. We also saw many Capoc trees. Strange looking spindly things with yellow flowers that hold the capoc buds. Capoc is used for stuffing cushions & toys etc.
EL QUESTRO
We arrived at El Questro around 1.30pm Sunday 2nd July. The first thing we did even before setting up camp was to go to the tour office and see what was available. We had wanted to do the breakfast cruise but unfortunately all of them were fully book for the duration of our stay so we went for the afternoon Explosion Gorge Cruise for the following day. We didn't fancy the horse riding as I had slipped and hurt my back at the last stop and Greg had a bad knee. What a couple of old crocks we were. We found a nice little spot for our tent right on the edge of the river and close to a small waterfall. Once again we had a great campfire area and a good fun evening around it
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This blue Kookaburra was a regular in the tree next to our tent. He seemed to like all the attention and having his picture taken. What a beauty he was..
********** After setting up the tent we went and explored the place and had a nice cuppa at the cafe. |
FIRST NIGHT SUN DOWNER AT BRANCOS LOOKOUT.
our group setting up
On our first night we drove up to 'Brancos Lookout' for a sun downer. We took our chairs, nibbles and drinks and sat at the edge of the cliff looking out over El Questro Gorge as the sun went down. It certainly was very nice. Driving up there was quite a hair raising experience with all the potholes, boulders, twists and turns and steep slopes. It was a great experience. We wondered how we would deal with going back down. in the dark. As it turned out it was easier because the headlights picked up more detail on the road.
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Compared to surrounding woodland El Questro Gorge shows a dramatic difference in vegetation and climate.The trail passes along a deep narrow gorge flanked by sheer cliffs.It has crystal clear pools and tropical vegetation.
Under a rain forest canopy a diverse eco system thrives in ideal conditions.
The surrounding cliff faces and scree slopes are up to 1800million years old and known as King Leopold Sandstone. Erosional forces, such as the watercourse, have carved out El Questro Gorge by following a geological fault line. There is a walk trail here too The long walk is very difficult and we did not attempt it. as it is only for very fit athletic people. The short walk was more our scene but we opted out of that too. So much to do - So little time.
4WD drive down to Explosion Gorge and the cruise.
This is the Safari vehicle that took us down to the Gorge.There were 8 of us on the tour, including 2 from our own group.The road down very rocky. The rocks were very large and very bumpy but our driver knew the road and we felt at ease. Because vehicle was open it remained cool. The dust we just dealt with. We were used to it by now and it was no longer a big deal. Hey! If we got dusty we just had another shower. Our tour guide was an El Questro employee & she was very good.It took about 30 minutes to get down to Explosion Gorge.
Out to Dinner
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Apparently an ancient small white crab like creature was recently discovered in the water. This is the only known place in the world where this creature is found.
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Zebedee Springs was wonderful. The water was crystal clear & very warm. The springs actually cascade down the hillside through a series of small spa like rock pools that are dotted along the different levels. It appeared to get warmer the higher you get. As we laid in the rock pools, looking up through the palms, we could see a flash of blue sky intermingled with rainbow coloured beams of light from the suns rays filtering through the palm fronds.We were wise to get there early and have the place to ourselves as throngs of people started to arrive just as were leaving.
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PARRYS LAGOON via WYNDHAM
The road from El Questro to Wyndham is called The King River Road.It is a very dusty sandy road with lots of Huge Boab trees along the sides. This is very much salt water crocodile country so we were hopeful a croc siting.
GIANT TREE
MOUCHALABRA DAM
We turned off the King River Road toward the Moochalabra Dam which was constructed in 1971 / 1972 as a temporary measure to allow time to better understand the catchment run offs and future water demand. Early history shows that the water used to be pumped by steam engines from rock pools on the King River. The steam was later replaced with Diesel.
We had been on the road since 8 o'clock and it was now 15 minutes past midday and we had only just reached the outskirts of the El Questro station which totals around a million acres.
WYNDHAM
We were having a lunch and fuel stop at Wyndham. Wyndham is Western Australia's most northern town and it is located 3216km north of Perth. In 1885 gold was discovered in Halls Creek, not far from here and John Forrest was sent to the East Kimberely ro select a site to service the goldfields. Governor Broom decided it would be called Wyndham and the townsite was registered in 1886. We drove around the port just for look around and then all separated and met up at the Five Rivers Lookout for lunch. What a fantastic 360 degree view we had from there.
The Five Rivers Lookout is also known as the Bastion and sits 350metres above sea level
The Five Rivers Lookout is also known as the Bastion and sits 350metres above sea level
Wyndham is quite built up. It is a port town with cattle as the prime export. The waters in the port are apparently rife with salt water crocodiles because when they used to process the cattle meat they used to pump all the ofal, bones and general meat waste into the port and the crocodiles would come in for an easy feed and although that practice has stopped, the crocs have remained here.The tides here 8-10metres where as at Derby it could reach 12 metres.
MARLGU BILLABONG BIRD SANCTUARY
The Parry floodplains have been listed as "Wetlands of International importance" and are important breeding and feeding grounds for many rare and unique bird species. We stopped at the Marglu Billabong Bird Sanctuaray and quietly watched them from the hides provided. There were crocodile warnings here but we still have not seen one.
PARRYS LAGOON
PARRY CREEK FARM CAMPSITE
After leaving the bird sanctuary it was just about a 20 minute drive to our camp for the night. When we drove in here we were very pleasantly surprised at how picturesque the Resort was. It is set on 120 acres of pristine land and surrounded by the famous "Wet Lands of the Parry Lagoon Nature Reserve" We were just 20 minutes drive from the Cambridge Gulf which boasts the best fishing in the Kimberley. Sadly we will have to wait until next time to do the fishing. We set up camp in record time. The camp fire was going early and the billy's were on and the party started early. We really liked this place and would definitely come back here on another visit. There was plenty of room and lots of nice grassed areas for campers. We camped next to the resort's organic vegetable garden. Unluckily for us it was well fenced off so midnight carrot snacks were out of the question.
ON THE ROAD AGAIN
TO KUNUNURRA
We left Parry's Lagoon around 8am for Kununurra via the Ord River. We stopped along the way to check out the 'Zebra Rock Gallery'
The sculptors here select and polish the Zebra Rock into beautiful pieces of art. Here at Kununarra the only known deposits of Zebra Rock in the world have been found. The Rock comes in many different colours and when polished, takes on a whole new dimension. It was fascinating to watch. While there we were able to hand feed the catfish from the jetty with small pieces of bread. There were hundreds of them all splashing around trying to get the bread first.
We also sat in the shade and enjoyed a home made devonshire tea before moving on to the Ord River to see Ivanhoe crossing. |
IVANHOE CROSSING
We had a very pleasant drive down to The Ord River. We saw lots of Brama Bulls along the road side aand on one occasion a group of young bulls decided to take off and stampede across the road. They crossed the road between us and the the car behind. Luckily no bulls or cars were damaged on this occasion. We stopped for a restbreak at the Ivanhoe Crossing over the Ord River. It was decided not to do this as a water crossing but to take the long way around. Most of our drivers were not experienced enough to tackle it with confidence so the executive decision was made to be err on the side of safety and go the long way round. It was great to be able to see it and watch one brave driver coming in the opposite direction carefully negotiate through it.
Missing out on this river crossing was OK because en route to Kununurra we had many other less ambitious water crossings to do which made up for missing out on Ivanhoe. We passed through Carlton Hill Station where the Brahma Bulls were all over the place. This is where we encountered the mini stampede.
KUNUNURRA
We arrived in Kununurra after lunch and would be there for 3 nights. The 3rd Day we were scheduled for a Triple J boat trip on Lake Kununurra up to the Diversion Dam, but the rest of day 1 and all of day 2 was free time for us to explore the area and catch up with shopping and laundry etc. The campsite we stayed at was ' Kimberley Land Holiday Park'. It was a very nice place with plenty of room and ample shaded sites in the tour operators area. Fires were not permitted here but it did not stop us from gathering around the BBQ at dinner time to share a few stories of the day and relax over a wine or two. Each night around dinner John and Sue would brief us on the happenings of the next day. It was fun and was always a good time for anyone to ask questions. We were feeling sad that trip was now counting down to the final few days. It had been the experience of a life time for us. Nothing came close.
Our fishermen returned to camp around 6pm with a beautiful Barramundi. It was plenty for everyone. That night around the BBQ we had fishermens tales of the ones that got away. The male Barramundi changes sex when it matures and becomes an egg laying female. For this reason there are strict guidlines on size. If the catch is below the minimum allowed, then it has to returned to the water. Also if the catch is over the maximum allowed, it has to go back. This is because all large Barramundi's are females. If harvested it would cause a shortage of young fish to keep the species plentyful. The fish feast was delicous.
TRIPLE J BOAT TRIP ON LAKE KUNUNURRA AND UP TO THE DIVERSION DAM
WOW!!
This was honestly the most amazing experience.
Our TripleJ tour guide was an expert boat handler.
He negotiated the shallows and took us on a high
speed joy ride, twisting and turning through the
narrowest of gaps. We also learned the history
behind the building of the diversion dam and how
it is constructed. The wild life that we saw along
the way was abundant and just beautiful to see
so much unspoiled nature in one day.
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Lake Kununurra is one of the lakes formed by the damming of the Ord River. The lake was created in 1963 following the completion of the $10 million Diversion Dam. The Diversion Dam was part of Stage One of the Ord River Scheme developing an irrigation system in the dry Kimberley district.
Stage One involved the building of the Diversion Dam and setting up 30 farms that would grow various crops. Crop trials were carried out and sugar cane and cotton stood out as having the most potential for the area. When the first commercial crop of cotton was planted it wasn't long before a plague of moths attacked it. The farmers resorted to increasing the amounts of insecticides pushing the costs up. By 1969 farmers were returning cattle onto the now irrigated pastures. So stage One was a failure, with the last commercial crop being grown in 1974.
The town of Kununurra lies on the banks of the lake. The lake provides a stunning backdrop. There is great fishing, boat cruises or even a float plane which is based on the lake that provides the perfect environment for wildlife. The lake has over twenty different species of fish and a large variety of waterbirds. Along with Lake Argyle .
Stage One involved the building of the Diversion Dam and setting up 30 farms that would grow various crops. Crop trials were carried out and sugar cane and cotton stood out as having the most potential for the area. When the first commercial crop of cotton was planted it wasn't long before a plague of moths attacked it. The farmers resorted to increasing the amounts of insecticides pushing the costs up. By 1969 farmers were returning cattle onto the now irrigated pastures. So stage One was a failure, with the last commercial crop being grown in 1974.
The town of Kununurra lies on the banks of the lake. The lake provides a stunning backdrop. There is great fishing, boat cruises or even a float plane which is based on the lake that provides the perfect environment for wildlife. The lake has over twenty different species of fish and a large variety of waterbirds. Along with Lake Argyle .
LUNCH STOP
We moored up at jetty and after a short walk the lunch area appeared. It was really well set up with tables and bench seats and plenty of shade. The Triple J people unloaded multiple eskys and laid out a fantastic lunch of cold meats, salads, plenty of hot and cold drinks and fresh fruit. We stayed here for a while taking in the magic of the scenery then we moved off toward lake Argyle. The days weather was perfect so far and so was the days tour. What more could we ask for?
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ON TO LAKE ARGYLE
The trip from our lunch spot to Lake Argyle was just as beautiful as enjoyable . Our tour guide continued to thrill us with his speed boat skills. The water is quite shallow everywhere. When we arrived at Lake Argyle Dam we disembarked and the Triple J bus picked us up and took us up to the top of the dam where we had the most magnificent views of both Lake Argyle and Lake Kununurra. There was a restored cottage/museum there that held a lot of memorabilia from the early settlers days.
LOOKING OUT FROM THE TOP OF THE DAM
PURNULULU NATIONAL PARK (THE BUNGLE BUNGLES)
Well after another great day we were all pretty tired and most of us went to bed early to be bright and breezy for our drive into the Bungle Bungles. We had been told was a rough ride and only accessible by 4WD. We were look forward to the experience. We arrived at the Bungles campsite early afternoon and we had about 10minutes to get the tent up and then we were off to Echidna Chasm.
Echidna Chasm is very narrow. In some places maybe only a couple of metres. It has very high vertical walls that give the impression that is narrower than it actually is. The walk was invigorating and interesting. At the end of the walk there was a steel ladder making it possible to get through to the middle part . The gorge was formed along a joint in the sandstone rocks. The rocks were weakened by forces of nature and water was able to get into cracks in the rock which over time became eroded by the salt and ice, destroying it and creating the deep narrow gorge.
Back to camp
We got back to our tents late in the afternoon. Our campsite was good but had no showers so John put up his portable camping shower which was an ingenious little setup. We each heated our own water in our Billy on the campfire diluted it with cold suit to our personal taste before stepping into the shower tent. A small pump running from the car battery system, pumped the water up and into the shower tent.It was a very fine slow flow. We switched on the water to get wet. Switched it off to soap up and then switched it back on again to rinse off. We managed to shower in just 3 litres of water by using this method. It was a fun experience and after felt great after a hot and sticky day at the Chasm, especially when you get to sit around a campfire and chill out after wards. We were all tired after a energetic day, so again we were in bed early as we had our scenic helicopter flight over the Bungles early in the morning.
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THE BUNGLE BUNGLES
The Bungles are massif and were created about 350 million years ago. Because of that we decided to do the helicopter scenic ride because we wanted to see as much of it as possible and from a great vantage point.
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These tiger-striped, beehive-shaped sandstone domes rise about 300m up from the ground and cover about 320,000ha of protected area that is Bungle Bungle National Park.
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They were discovered by white men as recent as the 1980's. Access by ground was almost never achieved until one man had a brainwave which led to a solution.
It was the smart thinking of an East Kimberely man, a spotter plane, sacks of flour, a 4WD and lots of savvy to find a moderate and safe way into this wonderland.
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The spotter plane flew low and carried sacks of flour, which were thrown out from the aircraft to mark the most accessible route into the Bungle Bungles. The 4WD vehicle followed the white dusty flour trail through the brilliant red earth and found a way into this most splendid natural creation.
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Over the last 350 million years, rivers washed layers of sand and pebbles grinding the sand finer and finer until it became sandstone rock. and the sand was ground finer and harder together until it formed sandstone and eroded away to form the dome shapes we see today. The domes gain their tiger-stripes from black algae growth that penetrates the porous layers and a glossy orange build up of manganese and iron staining. Being there it is hard to imagine how long it would have taken for these 'beehive' looking formations to have evolved. We felt in Awe of it all.
The Bungles has to be one of the most unusual place we have ever been seen. The ruggedness and arid terrain have to be seen to be believed. We took 100's of photos but none of them can show the true beauty of this wonderland.
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Crikey!!!..... We were on the go....go go go... It was fantastic. Not for one moment since we started this tour have we been bored. Each and every day we have seen and done things that we never in our wildest dreams ever thought we would.
We had no idea what these three places would be like but if history was anything to go by, we would once again be gobsmacked by what lay ahead. The Kimberley has to be one of the most diverse places in the world.
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CATHEDRAL GORGE
The walk through to Cathedral Gorge was breathtaking. We walked through domes that made us feel like we were back in prehistoric times. We could just picture the dinosaurs roaming this land millions of years ago.
Into Cathedral Gorge
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Cathedral Gorge is a huge Ampi. Theatre shaped cavern. Nature has formed some seats in steps and a stage. It is the most magical place. Just a whisper can be heard all around the Cathedral as the sounds resonated. It was fantastic.
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Whilst inside Cathedral Cavern, everything else seems pale in significance. The natural acoustics are unbelievable. A couple of our group took the stage and performed for us. We didn't realise that we had singers and musicians amongst us until then. They did a great job and received a good round of applause from everyone there. It was a lovely moment. The walk back was equally as mind blowing as the walk in .The Dome trail was unreal.
These Dome shaped rocks were like miniature version of the huge Bungle Bungles. They were like masses of big cone shaped beehives neatly formed in rows and layers. A truly magnificent sight once again.
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HALLS CREEK
We were away from camp around 7.30am in the morning for the long drive to Fitzroy crossing via Halls Creek. The tour used to stop overnight at Halls Creek but that has changed since Halls Creek has become less desirable so we drove straight through to Fitzroy Crossing Halls Creek is on the northern side of the Great Sandy Desert, about 300 kms east of Fitzroy Crossing. This is where gold was first discovered in Western Australia way back in 1885. As many as 15000 people prospectors from all over the world came here. In those glorious days it would have been a bustling community but today it is little more than a ghost town in the making. Houses and businesses are entombed inside high barbed wire capped fences for security. This is the last stop for travelers before the Canning Stock route. Today, Halls Creek known more for farming and mining industries and is a great base for exploring the area’s attractions. While here we went and saw 'Carolines Pool' and also the China Wall.
FITZROY CROSSING
Fitzroy Crossing is one of only two "towns" along the over 1000 km stretch of highway between Broome and Kunnunurra. The town owes its existence to the Fitzroy River. There are many tributary rivers that mingle together and lead into the Fitzroy that are named after women. eg.Margaret River,Laura River, Mary River etc.
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In the wet season the river rises and forms a huge torrent. It can rise up to 13 metres above the old crossing and flow at 30.000 cubic metres per second. In full flood is one of the largest rivers in the world and is an amazing sight but not many people get to see it as it can be difficult or impossible to cross. Travellers used to have no choice but to wait at the Crossing Inn, drinking beer until the waters to subsided. Poor things!! Fording the Fitzroy at other times could also be quite risky and so the Inn became a popular watering hole for those brazen enough to have a go. Now there is a highway and a bridge further south and the town has settled around it. We liked Fitzroy Crossing a lot. It is a very nice friendly little town.
FITZROY RIVER LODGE CAMPSITE
BBQ Area at Campsite
The Fitzroy River Lodge campsite was excellent.
We had a nice grassy area and there was plenty of shade.
We had the use of a wood burning BBQ that doubled as a campfire. There was also a shelter right next to it that had tables and benches and even 2 power points which was very useful for charging battery's and catching up with emails for those that could get internet connections.We had wireless internet but could not get a signal here.
The Lodge also had their own restaurant so it was unanimously agreed that we all go together on the second night after the Geikie Gorge trip for happy hour and dinner after wards.Our first night we cooked on the fire and reminisced about the the things we had done so far. It was nearing the end and none of wanted to get back to the reality of home yet. Just 2 more days and we would be back in Broome and and it would be all over.
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We had a nice grassy area and there was plenty of shade.
We had the use of a wood burning BBQ that doubled as a campfire. There was also a shelter right next to it that had tables and benches and even 2 power points which was very useful for charging battery's and catching up with emails for those that could get internet connections.We had wireless internet but could not get a signal here.
The Lodge also had their own restaurant so it was unanimously agreed that we all go together on the second night after the Geikie Gorge trip for happy hour and dinner after wards.Our first night we cooked on the fire and reminisced about the the things we had done so far. It was nearing the end and none of wanted to get back to the reality of home yet. Just 2 more days and we would be back in Broome and and it would be all over.
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GEIKIE GORGE
When we got down to Geikie Gorge we were greeted by our Aboriginal tour guide who take us on a DARNGKU Heritage Cruise. Geikie Gorge is located within the traditional country of the Bunaba people who have lived the Fitzroy Valley for 30,000-40,000 years. Compared to the Gorges age of 350million years, human inhabitants are very recent.
The Bunbuba people take their name from a sandy area along the gorge. Darngku is the name given to the area around the large white midstream rock formation. 'Dreamtime' says that a blind Aboriginal elder drowned after leaving his tribe to go walking.The old man sighed and sneezed before he sank to the bottom. It is said that if you sit quietly around the area you can still here the sighs of the old man. The area holds great significance for the Aboriginal people . Visiting Aboriginal people that are not from the Bunaba Tribe must splash water from the area over their heads. This cleanses them and clears their presence there. They must talk to the spirits in and around the rock and ask permission to use the area and be protected while they are there. ********** |
The high Point that we climbed up to
After much weight reshuffling of people boarding the boat we cruised on up the gorge. There was an ongoing commentary on the scenery and also at the same time he explained many of the Indigenous traditions connected to this area. We moored up on a beach and then walked to the rock face where we climbed, hand over hand through narrow gaps in the rocks and over big boulders get to to the highest point in the photo and sat up there for probably 45 minutes listening to the stories and the history. It was captivating and so were the views. Then we had to climb down again. The climb up was steep but not hard. It was very hot which made the going a little more difficult, but hey!... we are in our 60's and we had no problems with it. There was no time limit . One man even carried a child up there. I have no idea how he managed to do that without falling.
AND THEN ON THE WAY BACK.... THIS IS WHAT WE SAW!!
LAST DAY AT FITZROY CROSSING
The Geikie tour lasted all morning and was certainly very enjoyable. On the drive back to Fitzroy crossing we stopped for a picnic lunch at the old town site and checked out the ruins. We are not really into 'ruins' so we didn't stay long there and managed to find our way to The Old Crossing Inn for a couple of cold beers followed by a relaxing afternoon at camp before enjoying happy hour followed by dinner at the Lodge Restaurant. The whole group went along and it was a top night with great company and good food. We were a little late setting off in the morning as we waited for the breakdown truck to come in from Broome and pick up the broken 'MUSSO'. We felt sorry for the guys who's car it was as it was their pride and joy. 'Fingers crossed' that it was not too serious.
Well the Musso was in its way back to Broome and we were on our way to Windjana via Tunnel Creek
TUNNEL CREEK
The walk into the tunnel was very rocky but once we got inside it became sandy with scattered small slippery rocks in shallow pools that we had to walk through to get to the end. It was a marvelous sight. The reflections from the water seemed to create a glitter ball effect on the overhanging rocks. It looked like fairy land.
We saw a small King Brown snake while in there but it beat a hasty retreat when saw us coming. There were small lizards scurrying around and I am sure I saw some kind of crab in there. ********** |
There were crocodiles basking all along the edges of the gorge. Freshwater crocs do not usually attack but we were not about to take any chances. Some people do swim here but with all those grizzly looking crocs around we decided to give that a miss. We did manage to get quite close and take some photos which was a real buzz. They weren't moving much, just kind of looking at us. With those eyes and those teeth I would be very surprised to hear that they have any natural predators. We thoroughly enjoyed our walk along the gorge and it was wonderful for us to see the crocs in their natural environment on our very last day. That was the perfect finale to a perfect trip.
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It was not quite the end though. We had organised a farewell dinner at Matzos Restaurant in Broome on the following night with John and Sue as our guests. We all got to say our goodbyes there and hopefully will keep in touch. Maybe even a re-union in the future. We had planned to meet up some good friends of ours in Broome, and over the following 3 weeks were going to be camping our way back along the coast and staying at resort style campsites. They have more amenities but along with all that comes more people.
Give us the bush camp any day.
THE END
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Give us the bush camp any day.
THE END
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